After cruising the Baltics in July, we decided to make a quick three night stopover in Norway.
Our itinerary focused on taking the popular "Norway in a Nutshell" tour.
This whirlwind adventure takes a series of trains, buses, and ferries
throughout some of Norway's most dramatic outdoor scenery!
Our itinerary focused on taking the popular "Norway in a Nutshell" tour.
This whirlwind adventure takes a series of trains, buses, and ferries
throughout some of Norway's most dramatic outdoor scenery!
We began our journey in the city of Bergen.
On the west coast of Norway it is known as the "gateway to the fjords."
Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf is the main attraction,
being a UNESCO World Heritage site of colorful old homes.
Don't forget to grab a bite to eat at the daily fish market!
On the west coast of Norway it is known as the "gateway to the fjords."
Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf is the main attraction,
being a UNESCO World Heritage site of colorful old homes.
Don't forget to grab a bite to eat at the daily fish market!
View the Norway Travel Guide here or
see the Norway in a Nutshell Guide at the bottom.
see the Norway in a Nutshell Guide at the bottom.
Local Train
The next morning, we hopped on the train towards Voss
passing by several scenic lakes along the way.
The next morning, we hopped on the train towards Voss
passing by several scenic lakes along the way.
Bus
At Voss we switched over to a bus that would take us down into the fjords.
The bus made a quick pit stop at Tvindefossen waterfall
before making its winding descent into the fjord.
Covered in fog, we couldn't see the valley beneath us and it began to rain.
At Voss we switched over to a bus that would take us down into the fjords.
The bus made a quick pit stop at Tvindefossen waterfall
before making its winding descent into the fjord.
Covered in fog, we couldn't see the valley beneath us and it began to rain.
Ferry
Exiting the bus, we rushed to get in line for the ferry to Flam.
After 15 minutes of waiting in the rain, we were told that the classic ferry was having issues
and we were directed to the new electric ferry one pier over.
The new boat had large panoramic windows and comfortable seating.
Thanks to my camera's rain cover,
I was able to step outside and capture a few photos.
Exiting the bus, we rushed to get in line for the ferry to Flam.
After 15 minutes of waiting in the rain, we were told that the classic ferry was having issues
and we were directed to the new electric ferry one pier over.
The new boat had large panoramic windows and comfortable seating.
Thanks to my camera's rain cover,
I was able to step outside and capture a few photos.
Flamsbana Train
Around dinner time we boarded the historic Flamsbana train,
which is one of the steepest train lines in the world.
The train stopped briefly at the Kjosfossen waterfall
before continuing on past the Rallar road, a popular biking route,
and wound its way up the fjord through a series of tunnels.
Around dinner time we boarded the historic Flamsbana train,
which is one of the steepest train lines in the world.
The train stopped briefly at the Kjosfossen waterfall
before continuing on past the Rallar road, a popular biking route,
and wound its way up the fjord through a series of tunnels.
Bergen Railway
Once we reached the top station at Myrdal
we switched over to our last train of the night.
After a long day of being herded like cattle in cold, wet weather
I was relieved to have upgraded to comfort class for an extra $10.
We had almost the entire train car to ourselves with reclining seats
and unlimited coffee, tea, and hot chocolate available.
We ordered polse (hot dogs) and mashed potatoes
from the dining car, kicked off our shoes, and watched
the Norwegian countryside roll by...
Once we reached the top station at Myrdal
we switched over to our last train of the night.
After a long day of being herded like cattle in cold, wet weather
I was relieved to have upgraded to comfort class for an extra $10.
We had almost the entire train car to ourselves with reclining seats
and unlimited coffee, tea, and hot chocolate available.
We ordered polse (hot dogs) and mashed potatoes
from the dining car, kicked off our shoes, and watched
the Norwegian countryside roll by...
We completed the 'Amazing Race' just after midnight
when our train reached Oslo central station.
when our train reached Oslo central station.
Exploring Oslo
The next day we took the ferry over to Oslo's Bygdoy neighborhood.
Here we explored the Norwegian Folk Museum,
which showcases many traditional buildings from across Norway
in an open-air museum,
including a stave church built in the 1200's,
The next day we took the ferry over to Oslo's Bygdoy neighborhood.
Here we explored the Norwegian Folk Museum,
which showcases many traditional buildings from across Norway
in an open-air museum,
including a stave church built in the 1200's,
Then we wandered over to the Fram Polar Ship Museum,
which brings to life the expeditions of the first polar pioneers.
The most notable of these explorers includes Roald Amundsen,
the first to navigate the Northwest Passage, the first to reach the South Pole,
and the first to fly across the Arctic Ocean.
which brings to life the expeditions of the first polar pioneers.
The most notable of these explorers includes Roald Amundsen,
the first to navigate the Northwest Passage, the first to reach the South Pole,
and the first to fly across the Arctic Ocean.
Four days was the perfect amount of time to complete
the Norway in a Nutshell tour and see a bit of Oslo.
However, it wasn't nearly enough time to enjoy the great outdoors.
We have full intentions to return for a long
hiking and camping adventure in the future!
the Norway in a Nutshell tour and see a bit of Oslo.
However, it wasn't nearly enough time to enjoy the great outdoors.
We have full intentions to return for a long
hiking and camping adventure in the future!
Norway in a Nutshell Guide
What is Norway in a Nutshell?
When to Go?
How Many Days?
Where Does it Begin and End?
One Way or Round Trip?
Booking through the tour company vs. DIY?
- A self-guided route between Oslo and Bergen, Norway that takes several modes of transportation (train, bus, ferry). Transportation tickets can be booked as a package through the official NiN company or on your own.
When to Go?
- Norway in a Nutshell operates year round, but it has better weather and more convenient connections during the summer months from late June-August. This is also when it is the most crowded.
- Schedules are more challenging in the winter, some businesses close, and fjord towns remain covered in snow until May.
How Many Days?
- With an early start, one day is enough to go one way or go as a day trip from Oslo or Bergen.
- Some choose to spend the night in one of the fjord towns (Aurland, Balestrand, or Flam) along the way. This would avoid being on the same timeline as the NiN madness and be a great opportunity to cruise the fjords early in the morning.
Where Does it Begin and End?
- Most NiN tourists begin and end their journey in Oslo, by taking the NiN tour as far as Bergen and then returning to Oslo by a direct train. Negatives include a more crowded experience and less daylight for the fjord cruise.
- Oslo > Myrdal > Flam > Gudvangen > Voss > Bergen
- Those wanting to avoid the hoards of tourists can go the opposite way by beginning their tour in Bergen. This route should be less crowded and offer more daylight for the fjord cruise.
- Bergen > Voss > Gudvangen > Flam > Myrdal > Oslo
One Way or Round Trip?
- The NiN can be taken one way or round trip, this will depend on your itinerary and flight options.
- Also you don't have to go to the end of the line if you don't want to. Make a day trip from Oslo or Bergen.
- Some go from Oslo > Myrdal > Flam > Gudvangen > Voss and then return to Oslo by a direct train.
- Others might go from Bergen > Voss > Gudvangen > Flam > Myrdal and then take a direct train back to Bergen.
Booking through the tour company vs. DIY?
- The official tour company (Fjords Tours ) offers the convenience of having all transportation taken care of.
- By pre-booking you have a reserved spot on every leg of the trip and all you have to do is pick up your booklet of tickets at the train station when you arrive.
- It can be customized to include overnight accommodations in the fjord towns or cities.
- One negative is that the tour company sells the ticket package at an up charge compared to what they would cost if you had booked them individually on your own.
- DIY is a bit more tricky to figure out, but it can save quite a bit of money!
- If you book early, you can also take advantage of the discounted minipris train tickets, but keep in mind they are non-refundable.
- Some parts of the journey are impossible to pre-book, but they will never sell out. This includes the local train between Bergen and Voss and the bus between Voss and Gudvangen.
- Another negative is that the NiN company often puts so many tickets on hold, that some legs of the journey might show up as being sold out, particularly the Flamsbana train.
- Booking on the NSB website might be difficult for foreign credit card users and require making an NSB account or calling in person.
- Cost Comprison
- Total for tour company NiN = 1770 NOK ($210)
- Total for DIY NiN: 200+100+315+340+700 = 1655 NOK ($196) savings $14
- Total for DIY NiN (minipris): 200+100+315+340+500 = 1455 NOK ($172) savings $38
- Total for DIY NiN (minipris and late Myrdal to Oslo train): 200+100+315+ 340+ 249 = 1204 NOK ($144) savings $66
DIY Guide
Where to Sit? (opposite for Oslo to Bergen direction)
- Look at the Norway in a Nutshell timetables online and you can match up the times with the correct train/ferry schedule, then book your tickets. There are a few blogs out there that go into more detail.
- During the summer months, especially July and August, make sure you book tickets in advance!!
- Bergen - Voss (train)
- This leg of the journey cannot be pre-booked online, because it is a local train. This also means that there is no limit on the number of tickets that can be sold and there is no assigned seating. You might have to stand or sit on the floor, but you will get there! We purchased our tickets at the train station ticket kiosk the night before. There are no discounted minipris tickets for the local train, it is a fixed price.
- Time: 1 hr
- Price: 200 NOK (fixed price)
- Voss -Gudvangen (bus)
- There is no way to pre-book, the price is fixed, and you pay the driver (cash only) as you board the bus. There will be plenty of buses lined up outside of the train station at Voss or the ferry parking lot at Gudvangen, so there is no possibility of being left behind.
- Time: 1 hr
- Price: 100 NOK (cash only, fixed price)
- Gudvangen-Flam (ferry)
- Go to the Visit Flam website to pre-book tickets for the Naeryfjord cruise. Print your ticket in advance and bring it with you for boarding. The NiN time slot has a fixed price, but those taking an earlier/later cruise might find discounted fares. You can also upgrade to the new electric ferry for an additional cost.
- Time: 2 hrs (classic boat)
- Price: 315 NOK (fixed cost for classic boat)
- Flam - Myrdal (train)
- Go to the NSB website to pre-book. It is possible to book the entire Flam-Myrdal-Oslo leg at once. The Flam-Myrdal leg is always a fixed price.
- Booking on the NSB website might be difficult for foreign credit card users and require making an NSB account or calling in person.
- The NiN tour company or cruise companies may have tickets on hold for the Flam-Myrdal NiN time slot and show up as being "sold out". This happened to us and rather than leaving it to chance we made the decision to book the next train after it, which of course pushed back the time for the Myrdal to Oslo train.
- Time: 1 hr
- Cost: 340 NOK (fixed price)
- Myrdal - Oslo (train)
- Go to the NSB website to pre-book. It is possible to book the entire Flam-Myrdal-Oslo leg at once. When choosing seats, make sure you are facing forward and in a section with windows.
- Booking on the NSB website might be difficult for foreign credit card users and require making an NSB account or calling in person.
- If you book early enough you may be able to get the discounted minipris tickets for the Myrdal to Oslo leg of the trip. Note: minipris tickets cannot be refunded or changed.
- If you end up on the late train like us (arriving in Oslo at midnight), then you might be able to get even cheaper tickets!
- You can upgrade to Komfort class for about 90 NOK ($10) and you will have spacious reserved seating, nice reclining chairs, a charging outlet at your seat, and free coffee/tea/hot chocolate for the entire journey. It is well worth the upgrade!
- Time: 4.5 hrs
- Price: 700 NOK or 500 NOK (minipris) or 249 (minipris + late train)
Where to Sit? (opposite for Oslo to Bergen direction)
- Bergen - Voss (train)
- Best views are on the left hand side.
- Voss -Gudvangen (bus)
- The right hand side has more scenic lakes, but the left hand side will have the large waterfall (although the bus stops for a few moments to take photos from inside).
- Gudvangen-Flam (ferry)
- Class vs. New boat
- Most of the NiN tourists will take the cheaper "classic" ferry, which spends a longer time on the fjord getting up close to the waterfalls.
- The new boat is very nice with plenty of large windows and outdoor access. It will be less crowded, but it will not spend as much time on the fjord.
- Food is available for purchase on board.
- On the new boat I took the majority of my photos from outside at the back of the boat, but the front of the boat would be ideal for video footage.
- Class vs. New boat
- Flam - Myrdal (train)
- The right hand side of the train facing forward will have better views of the valley. The large waterfall will be on the left, but the train stops for photos (have someone save your seat if you get off the train here).
- Myrdal - Oslo (train)
- Make sure your seats are facing forward and in a section with windows
- Best views are on the right hand side in the middle of the car.
- Upgrade to Komfort class for about $10 and you will have spacious seating, nice reclining chairs, a charging port at your seat, and free coffee/tea/hot chocolate.
- You can order food from the dining car on board.
- This train has a family car with a play area for children.
- The last 1 to 2 hrs near Oslo are not very scenic, so don't worry about the lack of daylight and get some rest!